New Found Metals, Inc. 240 Airport Rd. Port Townsend, WA 98368 www.newfoundmetals.com 360-385-3315/888-437-5512

Installation Instructions

1. Remove the old port window. If your old port was installed with 5200, a great way to do this is to use a heat gun, hot air only. Heat up a 1 to 2 inch putty knife to cut the glue joint. Keep the heat on the blade as you push through the adhesive. This takes much of the pain out of the job and minimizes the damage to any veneer on the inside of the cabin.

2. Remove the old material using a rasp or dremel to accommodate the scupper (drain).

3. Use the finishing ring as a cutout and drill template. Create a template with each individual finishing ring. There are small variations due to slight distortion during polishing so make a template for each port. Also each port and finishing ring are matched with a number stamped on their backsides. DO NOT SEPARATE THE PORTS FROM THEIR FINISHING RINGS!

4. Use a drill guide to drill perpendicular holes. Drill a fastener hole using a 3/8” bit. Next, use an aircraft 5/8 or 11/16 counter bore with a 3/8 pilot to counter bore about ½ inch deep on the outside of the cabin wall. You can purchase the drill guide and counter bore from us.

5. Make sure the finishing ring lies flat against the cabin wall. You may have to enlarge the counter bore by about 1/32” if it doesn’t. The finishing ring usually lies flat against the wall if the holes are drilled perpendicularly.

6. Dry fit the port using all the fasteners. Make sure that your fasteners do not bottom out before the frames are tightened against the cabin wall.


BRONZE PORTS:

Our new bronze ports require 6mm (coarse) truss head machine screws (pan heads also work). We have full length fasteners available for purchase. See notes below on bolt measurement. We still have some stock of bronze ports that require 1/4x20FHMS, flat head machine screws. Bolt length on FHMS corresponds to the thickness of the cabin. For example, if your cabin thickness is 1 inch, the FHMS fasteners would be 1 inch. You can find FHMS at your local fastener store or order through a fastener company.

Our bronze ports do not come with fasteners. You’ll need 1/4X20FHMS, flat head machine screws. Bolt length corresponds to the thickness of the cabin. For example, if your cabin thickness is 1 inch, the fasteners would be 1 inch. See notes below. STAINLESS PORTS: Our stainless steel ports require 6mm (coarse) truss head machine screws (pan heads also work). We have full length fasteners available for purchase. Cut the fasteners to the unique depth of your cabin. Fasteners will bottom when screwed into the 8mm (5/16 inch) hubs. Bolt length measured from the bottom side of the head (flat side) is related to cabin side thickness plus the thickness of the main frame when using a truss head machine screws(the ones we sell). For example, if your cabin thickness is 1 inch, the fastener would be 1 inch plus the port window frame thickness (0.200 inch), so you cut the bolt to 1.200~1.300 inches (not below 1.200 inches). Three threads will give you 100% of the working load of the fastener.

7. Next, adjust for a relative line up. Mark a line along the top of the finishing ring. It is recommended to rub the finishing ring with RainX so that water will bead off the surface.

8. Looking from the inside of your boat, chamfer the edge of your cutout 3/16” to ¼”. This must be done for a correct installation - without a chamfer you will displace all bedding.

9. Our customers have been having great success with butyl rubber caulk. We have this available for $14.95 per box. This stuff never hardens and has an excellent working temperature range. If you use silicon, you will have to remove ALL the silicon before ever re-caulking. Boat Life has an adhesive remover called RELEASE. Note, that the stronger the adhesive, the less the joint is able to work with the expansion and contraction of the port and the boat itself. The strip caulk, on the other hand, always remains flexible.

10. If you have self-opening ports DO NOT remove the glass frame for installation. It is not necessary or recommended to remove the upper hinges. In the unlikely event you need to remove the glass frame you can unscrew the upper adjuster nut. CAUTION is required in unscrewing the adjuster nut as hinge post will spring suddenly once released. It should be held firmly and allowed to slowly spring forward. Now, wrap the strip caulk all around the spigot, adding extra caulking to the area below the drains. The thickness of your caulk should be slightly more than the gap between the spigot and the cutout. You will need to use two C clamps to clamp the inside frame into and through the cutout, forcing out some of the excess caulk. The gap between the spigot and the cutout should now be totally filled with caulk. Scrape off any excess caulk.

11. Wrap a strip of caulk around the hubs on the finishing ring so that counter bore is filled with caulk. Apply a ¼” bead of white urethane seal (Sikaflex 291 or similar) around the larger perimeter of the finishing ring to isolate the butyl. Slip the finishing ring over the spigot carefully. Begin adjusting the fasteners. Alternate screwing in all the fasteners, but do not clamp the port in too tightly. Stop when the white seal on the finishing ring starts to squeeze out – do not squeeze it all out. Clean up the portion that begins to extrude and let the rest set up (may take a day, depending on type of sealant you use). Finally, snug up the port window against the white seal and clean off the excess with a plastic card. You can use Meguiars car wax to clean any remaining residue.

NOTES: * Order the length of ¼X20 FHMS locally, or from Jamestown Distributors @ 1-800-423-0030. 6mm (rough) pan or truss head machine screws from a similar fastener supplier or from New Found Metals (our price = $5.00/port).