 Note: These are NOT for the TriMatrix ports
Stainless & Bronze
 Installation
Instructions SEE ALSO: Step-by-Step Guide for photos!
1. Remove the old port window. If your old port was
installed with 5200, a great way to do this is to use
a heat gun, hot air only. Heat up a 1 to 2 inch putty
knife to cut the glue joint. Keep the heat on the blade
as you push through the adhesive. This takes much of
the pain out of the job and minimizes the damage to
any veneer on the inside of the cabin.
2. Remove the old material using a rasp or dremel to
accommodate the scupper (drain).
3. Use the finishing ring as a cutout and drill template.
Create a template with each individual finishing ring.
There are small variations due to slight distortion
during polishing so make a template for each port. Also
each port and finishing ring are matched with a number
stamped on their backsides. DO NOT SEPARATE
THE PORTS FROM THEIR FINISHING RINGS!
4. Use a drill guide to drill perpendicular
holes. Drill a fastener hole using a 3/8” bit.
Next, use an aircraft 5/8 or 11/16 counter bore
with a 3/8 pilot to counter bore about ½ inch
deep on the outside of the cabin wall. You can purchase
the drill guide and counter bore from us.
5. Make sure the finishing ring lies flat against the
cabin wall. You may have to enlarge the counter bore
by about 1/32” if it doesn’t. The finishing
ring usually lies flat against the wall if the holes
are drilled perpendicularly.
6. Dry fit the port using all the fasteners. Make sure
that your fasteners do not bottom out before the frames
are tightened against the cabin wall.
BRONZE PORTS:
Our new bronze ports require 6mm (coarse) truss head
machine screws (pan heads also work). We have full length
fasteners available for purchase. See notes below on
bolt measurement. We still have some stock of bronze
ports that require 1/4x20FHMS, flat head machine screws.
Bolt length on FHMS corresponds to the thickness of
the cabin. For example, if your cabin thickness is 1
inch, the FHMS fasteners would be 1 inch. You can find
FHMS at your local fastener store or order through a
fastener company.
STAINLESS
PORTS: Our stainless steel ports require 6mm
(coarse) truss head machine screws (pan heads
also work). We have full length fasteners available
for purchase. Cut the fasteners to the unique depth
of your cabin. Fasteners will bottom when screwed into
the 8mm (5/16 inch) hubs. Bolt length measured from
the bottom side of the head (flat side) is related to
cabin side thickness plus the thickness of the main
frame when using a truss head machine screws. For example, if your cabin thickness is 1
inch, the fastener would be 1 inch plus the port window
frame thickness (0.200 inch), so you cut the bolt to
1.200~1.300 inches (not below 1.200 inches). Three threads
will give you 100% of the working load of the fastener.
7. Next, adjust for a relative line up. Mark a line
along the top of the finishing ring. It is recommended
to rub the finishing ring with RainX so that water will
bead off the surface.
8. Looking from the inside of your boat, chamfer the
edge of your cutout 3/16” to ¼”.
This must be done for a correct
installation - without a chamfer you will displace all
bedding.
9. Our customers have been having great success with
butyl rubber caulk (we have available for purchase). This stuff never hardens and has an excellent
working temperature range. If you use silicon, you will
have to remove ALL the silicon before ever re-caulking.
Boat Life has an adhesive remover called RELEASE. Note,
that the stronger the adhesive, the less the joint is
able to work with the expansion and contraction of the
port and the boat itself. The strip caulk, on the other
hand, always remains flexible.
10. If you have self-opening ports DO NOT
remove the glass frame for installation. It is not necessary
or recommended to remove the upper hinges. In the unlikely
event you need to remove the glass frame you can unscrew
the upper adjuster nut. CAUTION
is required in unscrewing the adjuster nut as hinge
post will spring suddenly once released. It should be
held firmly and allowed to slowly spring forward.
Now, wrap the strip caulk all around the spigot, adding
extra caulking to the area below the drains. The thickness
of your caulk should be slightly more than the gap between
the spigot and the cutout. You will need to use two
C clamps to clamp the inside frame into and through
the cutout, forcing out some of the excess caulk. The
gap between the spigot and the cutout should now be
totally filled with caulk. Scrape off
any excess caulk.
11. Wrap a strip of caulk around the hubs on the finishing
ring so that counter bore is filled with caulk. Apply
a ¼” bead of white urethane seal (Sikaflex
291 or similar) around the larger perimeter
of the finishing ring to isolate the butyl. Slip the
finishing ring over the spigot carefully. Begin adjusting
the fasteners. Alternate screwing in all the fasteners,
but do not clamp the port in too tightly. Stop when
the white seal on the finishing ring starts to squeeze
out – do not squeeze it all out. Clean up the
portion that begins to extrude and let the rest set
up (may take a day, depending on type of sealant you
use). Finally, snug up the port window against the white
seal and clean off the excess with a plastic card. You
can use Meguiars car wax to clean any remaining residue.
NOTES: * Order the length of ¼X20
FHMS locally, or from Jamestown Distributors @ 1-800-423-0030.
6mm (rough) pan or truss head machine screws from a
similar fastener supplier or from New Found Metals (our
price = $5.00/port).
Click Here for TriMatrix Portlight Installation Instructions
|
240 Airport Rd. 